The Hakkas, a sub-group of the Han Chinese, migrated to various parts of the world, including Southeast Asia. They brought with them their resilient spirit and unique culinary traditions, one of which is the famed Chun Gen (or Ken, Kien, Juan) 丹南春卷 . This dish, while of Chinese origin, has woven itself into the cultural fabric of Tenom, Sabah, where it has embraced local tastes, ingredients, and the heartwarming hospitality that Sabah is known for.
A Flavorful Journey
In its original form, Chun Gen, sometimes referred to as ‘meat roll’ or ‘Hakka roll,’ is a concoction of ground meat and various other ingredients, wrapped in a delicate egg crepe. The creation of Chun Gen is a culinary art that demands patience, precision, and a passion for flavor.
The heart of Chun Gen lies in its filling. The pork is pounded to a mince with traditional wooden clubs and skillfully seasoned with a pinch of corn starch, salt and white pepper. Then it is repeatedly slammed onto a flat surface until it reaches a silky-smooth consistency. Some even incorporate diced vegetables, fish or prawn paste, black fungus and other ingredients to bring a burst of flavours and a delightful crunch.
The Intricate Step
Perhaps the most intricate step is wrapping the filling in egg crepe. It requires a gentle hand to ensure the sheet doesn’t tear, securing the rich, juicy filling within. The edges are folded neatly, and the roll is shaped uniformly, highlighting the finesse and expertise behind this Hakka specialty.
Finally, Chun Gen is cooked to perfection, traditionally steamed. The egg crepe seals in the juices, ensuring a moist and flavorful interior. The result?
A harmonious contrast of textures that makes each bite a delightful experience. And when you slice it open, you are flaunted with a mesmerising yellow spiral pattern.
Pairing Chun Gen
While Chun Gen can hold its own as a standalone dish, pairing it with the right side dishes or drinks can elevate the entire dining experience. Locals often pair Chun Gen with a side of tangy dipping sauce, a bowl of fragrant rice, various soup noodles, fried noodles or even local dishes like Tuaran Mee and Wat Tan Hor. Sometimes, the meat paste is even used to create meatballs for many soups. When it comes to drinks, a cup of traditional Chinese tea can complement the rich flavours of Chun Gen, balancing its robustness with the tea’s subtle bitterness.
Conclusion
For anyone visiting Sabah, making a stop in Tenom for Chun Gen is a must. This dish, steeped in history and culture, offers more than just a meal — it’s a journey through the heritage of the Hakka community in the heart of Borneo. Through each bite, one can experience the stories, traditions, and communal spirit that have sustained and enriched this culinary legacy. It is, without a doubt, a dish that encapsulates the multicultural tapestry and bountiful nature of Sabah. So, on your next trip, remember to indulge in a plate of Chun Gen, a flavor not just for the taste buds but also for the soul.
Article curated by Himavee Jayaweera.
