Heritage foods are an integral part of the treasures passed down from previous generations. However, it’s a sad reality that many in the Malay community, especially the younger generation, no longer recognize these traditional dishes that were once beloved. Today, let’s take a nostalgic journey and explore three unique traditional kuih from Malaysia’s East Coast, specifically Terengganu. Who doesn’t know Terengganu? Besides its stunning landscapes that captivate tourists, the state also boasts a variety of traditional delicacies. Unfortunately, many of these are slowly disappearing under the pressures of modernization.
Let’s dive into these three fascinating kuih:
1. Che Abbas Demam
The first on the list is Che Abbas Demam, a name that instantly intrigues and invites curiosity—who was Che Abbas? This kuih carries the touching tale of a wife’s unwavering love in Terengganu. According to the story, Che Abbas, a fisherman, became ill and lost his appetite. Refusing to give up, his resourceful wife crafted a special dish using leftover sago and ikan selar from their keropok business. She cooked it with santan, ginger, shallots, and fenugreek before presenting it to her reluctant husband. To everyone’s delight, Che Abbas not only enjoyed the dish but also regained his strength and appetite.
The kuih’s success led the wife to share it with their neighbors, who were so charmed by its story and flavor that they began calling it Che Abbas Demam. Over time, it evolved into a treasured symbol of love and creativity within the local community.
Che Abbas Demam is made from cooked sago, cut into small pieces, and mixed with flaky fish meat. It’s served with a flavorful santan-based sauce seasoned with ginger and fenugreek. The dish is traditionally presented in small bowls, and its combination of soft sago, creamy coconut milk, and fragrant spices creates an unforgettable experience.
2. Kuih Kek Ang
Next, we have Kek Ang, another gem of Terengganu’s culinary heritage. Also called k’ang or ke’ang, this kuih has an equally intriguing backstory. There are two popular theories about its origins. The first suggests that the name comes from the Thai language, meaning “a dish with gravy,” reflecting the influence of Siamese culture during historical migrations. The second points to Chinese settlers who adapted the recipe after arriving via sea routes.
Resembling laksam, Kek Ang stands out with its sweet gravy, lack of herbs, and thicker kuih layers. Made from a mix of wheat and rice flour, the dough is steamed, cooled, and cut into pieces. Its gravy, rich and creamy, is prepared with santan, flaked grilled fish, shallots, ginger, fenugreek, salt, and sugar. When combined, the dish offers a unique blend of sweetness and savory notes, best enjoyed warm.
3. Bantal Buruk
Finally, let’s talk about Bantal Buruk, also known as Batang Buruk or Bata Buruk. The name, rooted in Terengganu’s dialect, is as unique as the kuih itself. This kuih is built around three main elements: the skin, the filling, and the gravy. The skin is crafted from wheat flour, milk, eggs, and salt, with some recipes replacing water with milk for added richness. Its appearance resembles kuih ketayap.
The “kekabu bantal” filling combines flaked fish, grated pumpkin, shallots, ginger, fenugreek, and santan. Cooks prepare it by cooking the mixture until it dries and seasoning it with salt. Meanwhile, they create the creamy gravy by blending santan, shallots, ginger, fenugreek, salt, and grilled fish to enhance its aroma. To achieve the desired thickness, they mix in a small amount of rice flour.
Once all the components are ready, they roll the flavorful filling into the delicate skin, creating a neatly wrapped bantal ready to pair with the rich gravy. Despite limited promotion, Bantal Buruk still captures the hearts of traditional kuih lovers. Interestingly, many locals savor this dish without knowing its name or the fascinating history behind it.
In conclusion, as heirs to such a rich cultural heritage, we should strive to preserve and cherish these traditional treasures. Kuih like these are not just foods; they are stories of our ancestors and a part of our identity. Let’s ensure they remain alive, resisting the tides of modernization.
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Article by Syuriana Ibrahim
